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@greg, I *could* lay out most of the baseplates I already have and snap a photo, but I may not have enough straights (8) to complete that, so I’d have to put some curves at the top corners and leave the middle of pit lane and the front straight blank. But you’d get the gist of it. I’ve been buying the road baseplates two at a time, but not often, as track building comes after the cars. Plus, I always have trouble uploading pics to here. How do I do that best? What are the restrictions that the forum has? You seem to post pics okay…
You could just and paste pictures from something similar online? For example,
It seems that a picture would save you from writing roughly 1021 words.
I had also been thinking that this last post needs way more pictures and diagrams.
If you’re posting a photo to a message here (instead of just a link to one), my recommendation is to use Photoshop to reduce it to a width of 1200 pixels. The only real limitation here is the size of the file in terms of memory, and making the pics that small has worked for me.
You could just and paste pictures from something similar online? For example,
It seems that a picture would save you from writing roughly 1021 words.
That linkage *might* just clue me in on how to create curved berms for the base of the curved catch fences and create a system. Great find!
Hey @zaximillian, based on this 2020 city set, I think TLG really likes your grand prix standard.
Hey @zaximillian, based on this 2020 city set, I think TLG really likes your grand prix standard.
Looks like I’m building a new #29. The previous plan for the #29 team comes from the stickered tiles from the Technic Dune Blaster set 8829, which only had three stickered parts, so the resulting #29 would have been pretty sparse. This new #29 is complete, and with a fig too that can serve as driver and pit crew. This expands Octan to a four car team, now worthy to root against. 🙂 I like the yellow, black and medium blue livery though. Pretty sharp. In all likelyhood, the black stickers on the spoiler will wind up on the hood and trunk of the car, as I try to make numerals visible from as many overhead angles as I can get, and the yellow 29 will go onto the roof. This in turn will change the color blocking of the Grand Prix car.
However, the #4 I already have in the converted Vita Rush team of the Desert Rally Racer, set 60218. This #4 I will build anyway, and will assist me in converting the #14 Rally Car, set 60113, into the Grand Prix cars I’m building.
Sometimes the discovery of a new LEGO set causes a domino effect with this particular project. In this case, I’m happy about that.
11/29/2019: I just finished a 52 stud long “PARTS + SALVAGE” sign for @whitesidewjw ‘s big, red MOC with the dangling rigging chains. I like this MOC, as it could be anything, and I like the idea of a space junkyard / aftermarket parts dealer / repair bay. Walter liked it, so it’s his. I was inspired to do this after the GOB sign for @joshhall went so well, as I love font design.
I built it using the collection of curved LBG tiles from LUGBULK, creating brushstroke tips on the 3×5 stud letters that just so happen to fit on 4×6 plates quite nicely with the latter spacing added in.
In this system, 3×5 lettering (or 5×5 in the case of M, W, and others) is the functional minimum without SNOT trickery in using the edges of plates and brackets. Some stud locations could be a different color for flash, and it’s probably really useful, as the entire system is LBG by contrast. Any colorful logo next to or combined with the LBG is going to pop.
My lessons learned are that the 1×1 quarter circle tile is VERY useful in standard studs up font design, as is the 1×1 round tile for styling and the 1×1 tile with one curved end. I used up maybe half of my supply, so if anyone has the LBG 1×1 quarter circle tile, or any 1x LBG tile length really, I’m interested in replenishing my “font tiles”, so I can brick build more signage.
It was a fun build! Now, on to @arcadiumsol’s White Raven!
@joshhall and @arcadiumsol, I’d like to ask about some LUG brick parts.
Do we still have a wealth of 1×1 plates? I’m low on the core colors and transparent red and green, and I’m thinking of gathering about 400 of each of white and blue for both a pixelated build for the Q1 build challenge and keeping them for white and blue craft and Temple of 5:2 with Travis brick constructions after that. Do we still have them?
I think I’m going to try to redeem trans-red and trans-green cheese too, as the fighter wing for Walter and my Grand Prix racers are using up those parts.
And since I used up a good bit of 1x LBG tiles and curved tiles, I want to replenish those. How are we on 1x LBG tiles and 1×1 curved tiles?
By the way, @bengood921, yes, I am interested in getting those two dirtbikes from you.
Thanks, fellas, for working with me on resources to plan my builds. That’s a major part of what the LUG is for.
12/2/2019: Based on the updated White Raven fuselage LDD file that @arcadiumsol sent me, plus some partial real brick assembly (THANK you for the landing gear assemblies), I realized I did not have the same parts that the build called for, and using the instructions that LDD generated was a terrible idea.
So I created two fuselage twice in the same area, one as the fully colored original, the other recolored transparent all the way through. Starting with the parts Sean gave me, I starting filling in the second copy, part by part, recoloring when I’ve physically built that part in, but also replacing some parts with others as I went, both for color, to strengthen the white amid all this black, and eventually for connectivity and strength.
I’m about halfway done, coming at it from the top and the bottom at the same time, as I know I am going to want to move some hardpoints lower to account for Sean’s secondary modules.
I am SO glad I gave up on following LDD’s advice. Lesson re-learned? Do NOT trust LDD to give you instructions on how to build once SNOT and Technic wizardry comes into play.
Also giving three boxed sets to the Salvation Army this year, as my building manager told me to throw away the remaining tags on the tree that no one wants to pick up. Two boys, one 10 and one 13, and one girl, aged 12. I’ll never get to ALL of these boxed sets I bought for myself in any reasonable time anyway. I feel good having this little bit of Good dropped in my lap to be able to do with little muss or fuss.
12/9/2019:
Massive work done on the White Raven fuselage for @arcadiumsol’s faction. I’d say the fuselage is about 90% done, and I’m pleased with the subtle adjustments I made so far:* I was missing a black Plate, Modified 2 x 2 with Grills, part 41862, and a black Plate, Modified 4×4 with cutout, part 64799. I used LBG in both cases. If you have either part, Sean, that would be great.
* I pretty much used the template you built, Sean. Dropping the secondary modules’ hardpoints is not possible without thickening the entire fuselage by a plate. This is not something I want to do, as it would require a total rebuild and pitch the craft forward even further than it already is. That said, the secondary hardpoints aren’t held on by a lot, so the secondary stuff will need to be compact, light, and molded as tight to the fuselage and wings as possible, probably limited to the canted 22.5 degree position of the wings above it.
* I wound up using the white upward pointing 1×1/1×1 brackets we got from last year’s LUGBULK to build the studs out side stripe along the fuselage. The downward pointing bracket in LBG is exactly where it needs to be, Sean, and the LBG lip that’s visible on the ventral surface of the craft isn’t bad at all, due to the big LBG landing gear right beside them. I like the feel of the LGB being the chassis and ventral surface, and the white and black being a shell over it on sides and top. I may use this in later builds to make the color blocking more solid and put more greeble underneath on my craft more often.
* I made a handful of color blocking changes to better match the stripe on the cockpit with the stripe on the fuselage. Turns out that matching them is impossible. Making them intersect was a better idea. I even removed the flight lights, as those really need to go outboard as far as possible, on wings and modules.
* The little recess in the dorsal area of the craft, between the curved slopes, I filled with a trans-red 1×2 grille in a callback to the Red Sparrow.
* I fidled around with LDD, and, with the rear landing gear lowered to 90 degrees and the nose wheel pushed all the way back, the craft pitches forward at about -5 degrees. I had to do this so I can design the canted wings with sufficient clearance. the slight nose down pitch might give this craft a diving look while sitting on the ground, which I’m growing to like. Rolling the craft around in play makes the rear wheels rotate independently, making the craft stumble a little bit during quicker movement as the wheel assemblies pivot like on a shopping cart. I’m not mad at this, because honestly, the craft should never move this way in the first place.It’s got complex outer shaping that makes color blocking a bit of a challenge in a good way. I decided to not force the striping to bend at the connection between cockpit pod and fuselage, but to have these stripes intersect instead.
Next up is digitally building the engine. I have four of those “shield” parts with pins and intend to use them. I’m concerned on how to integrate the engine with the 24 tooth clutch gear. I’m going after the main engine / FTL drive next, as this will further define overall profile of the craft.
After I get this craft to version 1, I may make a second pass and refine it to version 2 before handing it off to you for refinements. My plan is now: main dual purpose engine, wings, secondary assemblies, and finally weaponry.
12/10/2019:
Finished digitally entering the partial engine idea that @arcadiumsol gave me. Interesting construction: it’s a combination of System and Bionicle parts connected via clip and bar and voodoo ball connections. In practice, the tow balls do not have the axle socket deep enough to keep good clutch, so using voodoo balls is better. Thus, I’m gonna need more voodoo balls.I also in LDD can’t get the tank tread links to link around rims. Apparently I’m going to have to work this option in real brick only. Pretty sure I can use the bare rim to represent color blocking.
12/12/2019:
No building or designing, just the nagging thought that I want the engine housing to be molded into the fuselage so I can turn a rear element of said engine, spin everything else within it as the landing gear comes down, like @arcadiumsol’s Eon craft. This will require an extension of the fuselage into the engine housing, which is okay, as the aft is set up with good connection opportunities.
12/16/2019:
I am investigating planetary gearing, mostly as an interior connection to the ring teeth on the inside of part
It turns out that three gears fit from end to end inside, and can be braced together with a 1×5 Technic liftarm. I’m thinking about making the White Raven’s dual purpose drive look as techy as possible, unlike the simplistic cones, wheel rims, or teacups I use. I think this will be a nice departure from my standard design sense, but figuring out the balance between what moves and what doesn’t while keeping structural integrity and strength, now that’s the challenge to me right now.
I am bad at mechanical things.
12/30/2019:
Putting the White Raven on hold again, shifting to the Q1 Build Challenge.
@bengood921: Do you still have those two dirtbikes? Can I get those?
@joshhall: I’d like to come down to your place to redeem some blue and white 1x plate, up through 1×4, but 1×1 is what I need most, and by the cup, for pixelated lettering. I’ll reuse these for Space anyway, as white and blue are the top two UEF faction colors. Kinda low on 1×1 plates overall anyway… so can I get them from LUG brick for myself?I still have them, they must be in the house somewhere, but the problem is that I don’t know where they are. If I can find them, they’re definitely yours. An additional complication is I’ve barely been at my house the last 3 weeks because of holiday traveling, and I’m about to leave again today for another ten days. So I won’t be able to look for them until late next week.
Hey @zaximillian, based on this 2020 city set, I think TLG really likes your grand prix standard.
1/13/2020:
So I bought two of this set, and completed my version of a V8 #29 for the race field. Here it is:
Hey @zaximillian, based on this 2020 city set, I think TLG really likes your grand prix standard.
1/13/2020:
Also finished this weekend, the #14 AirBorne / Expedite / Mountain Sport car. The headlights have beem changed since this pic, but the livery is still the same:
1/14/2020:
Assembled the bricks from the second LEGO #4 Sport Mountain car. I plan on changing the color blocking and altering this into a V8 model from its rally car hatchback type. The red fender wells I’m taking to start the #13 car.
I’m going to have to Kragle the very tips of the stickering atop the #8 car as I refit it to include the extended rear section to include gas cap. I added this feature after I had started building these cars, so now I have to work my way backwards from #8 to #1 and add it to all of them.
1/16/2020:
I rediscovered the Moonbase standard for space bases, and it got me thinking about modularity, which I highly value for longer term displays. I think I’d like to use the Moonbase standard for my base too as unified airlocks, passageways, and support distances, but atop MILS as well.
This complicates things in a number of ways for me:
* It removes the capability to connect airlocks at baseplate level. Therefore, every connection between baseplates in my bases must be at the 5 brick level.
* In terms of style, Moonbase in Classic Space is cubic. The better Moonbase styles in Neo-Classic Space are often circular and in large scale, a building style I haven’t tried.
* My original G-Base concept for the United Earth Fleet was angular, like the Project G logo, and as such relies heavily on the 2×3 wedge to create angled walls. I’d like to keep this architectural aesthetic, and would like advice on how to maximize it from architecture builders.
* This led me to abandon the large, rounded square architecture plan as the main superstructure, but instead use the circular and rounded square shapes as towers instead, perhaps as the main Outer Colonies aesthetic instead. With a smart purchase of large quantities, I could make 12×12 or 16×16 stud towers with a 4×4 hole in the middle for elevator access, with barely room enough for a single fig. 12×12 is better, as this arrangement, on a 32 stud baseplate, would allow two towers with a 4 stud space to either side of the pair, but no room between them. Thus, it seems that single, larger towers are best.
* Even so, with buys of the 4x4x6 trans-clear panel through LUGBULK, combined with 4×4 curved plates and some small 4×4 plates, a base superstructure could go vertical very, very quickly.I just need to do more research into the Neo-Classic Space base constructions, and figure out how these elegant and very large circles are constructed so tightly, hopefully without stressing any brick. I’ve decided to hold off on major base building until I do some more research, but those 4x4x6 panels are just too valuable in bulk and mint condition to pass up. Scratches suck while looking in on figs, and I’ve decided that trans-dark blue is too dark for buildings with complete interiors that are designed to be playable.
This complicates things in a number of ways for me:
* It removes the capability to connect airlocks at baseplate level. Therefore, every connection between baseplates in my bases must be at the 5 brick level.If you were to create transition modules from the accepted standard to your standard (ex. enclosed staircases) then could you use what you already have?
This complicates things in a number of ways for me:
* It removes the capability to connect airlocks at baseplate level. Therefore, every connection between baseplates in my bases must be at the 5 brick level.If you were to create transition modules from the accepted standard to your standard (ex. enclosed staircases) then could you use what you already have?
Good point, @greg. I definitely could transition from the 5 brick level down to the 1 1/3 brick level within each MILS’d baseplate and still conform to Moonbase standard at the edges at the 5 brick level. Is that what you meant?
1/17/2020:
I joined a Gradius Discord channel, and showed my G-Fighters. Someone wanted the downloads for the designs, but I offered a new design instead. So now I’m going to see if I can bash my way through a brand new Vic based on the recent knowledge I’ve acquired.
Red wings and tail fin, for sure, for starters, modeled on the Paladin / Warlock. That’s my plan.
1/20/2020:
This new project has triggered me to compile all the lessons I’ve learned so far, and to use this next starfighter design as a test bed for solutions that I’ll need to apply to the G-Fighter refit.
I’ve started with trying to replace the off-stud clip and bar connection that keeps stressing and breaking the clips that connect the cowlings on the FS-39G Warlock above and below the indented missile bays. Playing around with LDD and using real Pythagorean math instead of letting LDD eyeball the tolerances, I’m now using a 3-4-5 stud triangle.
A 3-4-5 stud triangle has big advantages, because to components are measured in distances between the studs, not the studs themselves. Therefore, the hypotenuse is not 5 studs, but SIX studs long. The 3 becomes a 1×4, and the 4 becomes a 5 stud distance. One odd stud distances instead of two. This 4-5-6 STUD triangle can also be cut down to a 2-2.5-3 stud triangle, and half a stud is possible to do with some SNOT wizardry.
Unfortunately, the angles this creates opens up a much “fatter” area than the slender one the Warlock has, so this makes things taller.
After the edges of the triangle are determined, the hypotenuse can be moved off of the cradle of the other two sides to allow for clip and bar connections. It just needs to be the same on each end, and it should do fine with zero stress to the brick.
After I work this solution out, I can then apply this new cowling shape to the Warlock.
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